Recap

Back on Aug 28, I made a list of predictions of my great adventures that looked like this:
1. The Grand Canyon
2. Yellowstone National Park
3. Chicago
4. San Diego
5. Vancouver
6. Austin, TX
7. Badlands National Park
8. Yosemite National Park
9. The Oregon Coast Line
10. New Mexico

Here's the revised list after the trip for comparison:
1. Badlands NP
2. Sedona, Arizona (and Flagstaff area)
3. Austin, TX
4. Big Bend NP
5. San Diego
6. Yosemite NP
7. Chicago
8. Grand Tetons NP
9. Grand Canyon NP
10. San Simeon, California

Facts to be added:
I traveled 13,893 miles. New York to Vancouver is just over 3000 miles. So i did that trip 4 times. That's alot.

I spent somewhere in the range of $6500.
I was on the road for 74 days.
I was under budget if you consider it was less than $100/day, but over budget since I only planned to be on the road for 60+ days. Either way, it was well worth it, and relatively a good deal. About $2400-$3000 was spent on gas, oil changes and car repairs.

The trip included 9 National Parks (and quite a few National Monuments); 22 states and 1 Canadian Province. I also visited or drove through 8 state capitols.

That's about all the statistics that I can think of for the moment.

John Ur Presents: John Ur

P1050310Q: So how was it? I see you shaved.
A: Great. Thanks for noticing.

Q: How do you feel?
A: Complete. Not like life is over, complete. But more like finishing a puzzle, complete. I can’t say that I’m happy or sad, just that I’ve set out with a goal in sight and I’ve reached that goal. So in that sense I am very satisfied. Like a good meal. Or something.

Q: What were some of your favorite places?

A: Well if we’re talking about cities, San Diego slightly edged Austin in the battle of big cities. Sedona, Arizona was my overall favorite city – but is in a smaller category than San Diego or Austin. Big Bend and the Badlands were my two favorite National Parks maybe because they were the most isolated. Yosemite would be a very close third.

Q: Any speeding tickets?
A: Yes, thank you to Libby, Montana.

Q: So you and Shannon only knew each other for a week… And you just spent about 70 days together. How did that turn out?

A: Much like you would imagine. We had many great times. But we also got on each other’s nerves for the simple reason that we were around each other almost 24 hours a day. But all in all, we developed a valuable friendship. Shannon is back in Ohio finishing off college at Cleveland State and I’m headed off to other places. Maybe our paths will cross again sometime in the future. Anyone who bet that we’d get married in Vegas needs to pay up.

Q: Any regrets?
A: Only that I didn't have more time for each place. We really only got to scratch the surface of each place we visited. It was like a giant sampler platter of US destinations. Now I know where to explore when I have more time.

Q: So what’s next?
A: Well, it looks like I have a busy few weeks ahead. I have lots of moving of other people to help with… one friend in Woodbridge, one in DC, my father to his new office in Woodbridge… Then we have holidays and I have to fly out to LA to work on a documentary from Dec 15th to 20th. Then we got New Years… And if everything goes as planned, I may be headed to Nicaragua mid-January to work for the next year doing web and video production.

Q: Wow.
A: Yep.

Q: OK.
A: OK.

Q: So, uhhh, are you gonna be around if I think of anything else to ask about?
A: Sure thing. You know where to find me. 

This is the end

P1050306Late last night I updated the photo albums with Little Rock, Memphis, Nashville, Cincinnati and Cleveland. I'm sitting in my cousin Mike's house, the same place I stayed on the first night of the trip. Nice little circular thing I did there, don't you think? Yesterday, i drove the six hours from Shannon's house in Stow, Ohio to Mike's house in Glenside, Pennsylvania, just north of Philadelphia. I thought the trip was going to end perfectly with this rainbow looking out over the Pennsylvania Turnpike. Of course, shortly after it became dark, I had to drive through a downpour. I thought rainbows come after rain? Tomorrow, I'll be posting an interview with myself to hopefully answer all of your questions about the trip. If there's anything you would like to know, drop a comment for me or send me an email and I'll try to work it in.

Walking in Memphis

P1050021East of Austin, the road stretches past Houston and Beaumont, Texas. We continued east to Lake Charles, Louisiana. As you approach the border of Louisiana, you can see the change in your environment. Texas is desert, flat, dry farmlands. Louisiana is swampland, with tall, lanky trees, sparsely-leaved, stereotypical coast land. If there did not exist the municipal borders between the two states, you could probably identify the geographic lines that separate the two.

P1050027Lake Charles, LA is a gambling town, largely black population that was hit by Hurricane Katrina (maybe Rita as well – but I don’t remember). Most of the houses in the area have temporary blue plastic on their roofs. Roofers and construction workers must be in high demand in this and other areas affected by the hurricanes. As you drive down the street, you can see hints of the destruction of the storms: debris piled on the side of the road, panels of high rises torn off, bent and twisted road signs. Many trees on the side of the highway are ripped from the ground or cracked at their base and toppled over. I can’t imagine what this area looked like a few months ago or in areas closer to the Gulf.

We stayed in Shreveport that night en route to Little Rock, Arkansas and Memphis, Tennessee the next day.

Not much to say about Arkansas except that the fall colors are almost as spectacular as in New England. Little Rock, the capital, is, well, a capital city. And that’s about all I have to say about that.

P1050160Just on the opposite side of the Mississippi River lies Memphis, Tennessee. The first night we were arriving in Memphis we crossed the Mississippi over one bridge, drove through the city looking for a motel, ended up on a road going in the opposite direction, crossed the river again, and spent another half hour searching for a motel in West Memphis – which happens to be in Arkansas. Memphis is a blue city. Not in the political idea of blue and red states but in the glow of the city off of the river, in the feel of this place that seems to have been beaten down and hidden away. Tucked in the corner of the state of Tennessee, Memphis is rundown – from the Lorraine Hotel where Martin Luther King was shot (which is now a Civil Rights Museum) to Beale St. which is the center of the bar and music scene, overwhelmingly blues. If I were an entrepreneur with a wad of cash burning a whole in my pocket, I would buy up some of the broken down buildings on the south side of town, mostly deserted, and crank up the dial on revitalization around the city. Memphis is a hotbed of action waiting to be realized. Some influx of business and tourism and the city could be booming. 

Nashville, on the other hand, needs to pack it in and call it a day in my opinion. Strike number one: Too much country music. I wanted to vomit. Strike number two: A Baptist church every 20 feet. Women and children walking around with hats that say “I Love Jesus” or tie-dyed shirts that said “Jesus Freak”.** Strike number three: The only Starbucks I could find closed at 6PM. OK let me explain this last strike…

Before this trip, I was not a big fan of Starbucks. Since I despise coffee, this seems like simple reasoning. However, my opinion has changed. First, Starbucks is the simple cure for Shannon’s coffee-jones in the morning. Second, Starbucks makes an excellent chai latte, which I quickly became a fan of… Third, Starbucks is my source of free internet (not totally free – it’s a T-mobile hotspot, but Darren hooked me up with a name and password for it). So besides serving as my sweet libation fix, it also gives me a spot to update the site. Very important service.

P1050139** I should tell everyone that I have now offended, I am not anti-Christian or anti-religion. It’s just not for me and I like to joke about people who are fanatical about it. And as for you country music lovers? Go jump off a bridge! If it’s not Johnny Cash, it’s useless.

Saturday, we headed north to Louisville, Kentucky for lunch and then further to Cincinnati, Ohio. OHIO!! Holy quickness batman. Sunday, we hung in Cincy and then shot back to Stow. I’ll hang a few days at Shannon’s house. We’ll hit up Cleveland before I head back to NJ.

>Photo albums will be updated soon. Maybe. When I feel like it.

Austin City Limits

P1040853Out of the large scale cities, Austin and San Diego are my top two. Austin holds the slight edge in charisma, but San Diego has that powerful trump card – the ocean. May it be noted that Chicago is third with the ugly distinction of frigid winters…
Austin, if I had a clone, would be the place I would attend college the second time around. It is the exact opposite of Fairfield. Here lies the University of Texas at Austin, a hugigantamungous campus and student body located in downtown Austin with top-notch athletic programs. There is something that lacks about a college experience without having a good sports team to root for… Not to say I didn’t have a great experience at Fairfield, UT would just sort of fill in all the holes of things I missed.
Here is a city with culture, music, and a place to go (Sixth Street) that rivals any nightlife I’ve seen anywhere. The people in this town are also generally the opposite of the rest of the state: liberal and open-minded. It’s also November and it’s 85 degrees. Woowhee, lets’ rassle up some cattle! Or maybe the millions of bats we scoped flying out from the Congress Ave Bridge at sunset.

With about a week left before we get to Ohio, my attention has already shifted. I should be focused on Memphis and Nashville and enjoying these last few days on the road but I’m itching to work again. After reading my post about the proposed border wall, Mark McGregor from Fairfield U contacted me about a documentary project he’s working on. The documentary, which will explore immigration reform issues with latino youths in California, will be shot from Dec 15-20. Mark invited me to help out and I have agreed to go with him for the week to Los Angeles and Tijuana for shooting. I may also create the graphics for the film and possibly a website. I am excited and my creative juices are ready to flow.

I also wanted to take a moment to thank you, dear reader, for checking in as often as you do. It does give me a feel of celebrity that I am being read by a number of eyes that I may not even know. So whether you are a family member of mine, or of Shannon, or a friend, or a complete stranger, thanks for coming and taking an interest. I hope this site will remain of interest to you even after the trip is over. I have some exciting things in the works (not the least of which is the documentary) and I will try my best to keep it updated as much as possible.

As I had mentioned in a prior post, I’ve been contemplating how to work things with this tip jar and photographs… Here’s what I came up with:
For a $5 donation, I will create desktop wallpaper of any 3 photos of your choice and email the photos to you.
For a $5 donation, I will send you a CD with all of the images that have been posted on this site. I’ll probably label the pictures better and sort them into folders too. You may also request a CD with or without the pictures of Shannon and me.
For a $10 donation (hopefully that will cover shipping costs), I will print and frame any 1 picture of your choice.
For a $20 donation, I will print and frame 3 photos of your choice. This will be a triptych style frame, so all 3 pictures will be held in the same frame with individual mattes. Umm, I’ll post an example when I get a chance if that’s confusing.

I can also change pictures into black and white if you’d prefer them that way. Any money above my costs of printing and shipping will be used to defray the costs of this trip and running this website.

If you have any questions on how things work, please feel free to email me. And I’m sure these will make great Christmas presents if you’re stumped on what to buy *wink wink, nudge nudge*

Those of you who have already donated, thanks so much for your generosity. You will get your choice of the above. Those who have not, feel free to donate at any time, but don’t feel obligated. I’m just trying to provide a service for those who want it. Thanks. Hope I don’t sound like a slimy, conniving businessman.   


All my Ex's live in Texas

P1040616“You will fail sometimes. And that’s ok. That’s all part of it.” Jeffrey Hughes, Fairfield class of ’63, has made a pretty good living for himself and his family. After serving in the Armed Forces, he and his sculptress wife headed to Latin America as he worked for a corrugated box company. He’s opened a few businesses of his own and currently works about two or three hours per week in his office and thirty-two hours from home as head of Intelligent Offices. Jeff treated Shannon and I, and Gary Dayon, Fairfield class of ’71, to breakfast. Gary is a recently established real estate agent, after spending thirty years working in the manufacturing industry. Quite nice meeting with both of them.

P1040625From El Paso, we headed down to Big Bend National Park. The road to Big Bend is abundant with small shrubs and dust. If you’re looking for scenery, this is not the place of the country to drive through… That is until you reach Big Bend. The stereotypical perception of desert is Sahara like dust and sand for miles upon miles in every direction with an occasional cactus. The more typical desert is full of plants – small, insignificant (at least to me) shrubs with latin names (that I can’t remember), small flowers, and cactuses and yucca plants that store water to feed themselves and the animals that eat them. 

Big Bend is named for the Rio Grande, or as the Mexicans call it El Rio Bravo del Norte (the Wild River of the North), which takes a ninety degree turn on the border of the park. The park is a beautiful amalgamation of desert and mountains and river. We camped in the basin of the Chisos Mountains, with the campground surrounded on all sides by mountains. The weather was beautiful – clear skies, mid-seventies to mid-eighty degrees during the sunny days, dropping to forties and fifties at night. If Montana hadn’t already laid claim to the nickname of Big Sky Country, I’d dub Texas as so. With the exception of the basin where our view was obstructed by the mountains, you can see for miles upon miles anywhere you step foot in the state. [I threw together a quick panorama of our camp site. It's not my best handiwork - quick and dirty]

Our first partial day in Big Bend, we set up camp, cooked dinner and watched shooting stars. East Coast skies don’t have stars like this. You have to go somewhere dark, with less trees, to really enjoy the sky at night. Since the forecast did not call for rain, we left the rainfly off the tent so we could see out the screened roof at the stars, and in the morning, the blue sky. The next day, we drove the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive through the park down to Santa Elena Canyon. The Canyon is a crevice in a mesa plateau where the Rio Grande River has cut through rock over many millennia. We hiked inside the canyon, but not before I muddied my boots by futilely fording a small creek in search of the hiking trail. Some patience and diligence from Shannon revealed a drier and cleaner track across the creek. Too late for my boots and pants. And the socks were goners too.
Shannon walked, I sogged, along the trail that put us into a forest-like environment of brush and trees and a muddy river full of silt.

After some more hiking that day, we settled back into camp. This second night was a bit colder than the first, and it wasn’t helped by the wind that started blowing through the basin. As the sun set, and we got into the tent, we realized sleeping was going to be a difficult task. After all, it was Halloween, and the wind began to whip around and thrash our tent. Who knows what ghostly spirits were trapsing around the desert mountains in southwest Texas? I think I awoke around 4AM and everything began to quiet down. But who knows if any bears or mountain lions or javelinas were outside scavenging for food. Either way, we survived the night.

Tuesday, November 1 we got lost on another hike around the Rio Grande. Well, we didn’t really get lost, we just didn’t know where we were or where we were going. When in doubt, backtrack. So we did. Three hours after starting the hike, we got back to the car, tired and ready to head to San Antonio. So we did. If you’d ever like to drive a long quiet road that would give you some time to think and contemplate life, drive across the western portion of Texas. We were on route 90, but you could probably choose any of the roads out here. There ain’t nuthin’. After going crazy around hour 4, we stopped in Uvalde for some lousy dinner, then hit the road for the last hour to San Antone. Not five minutes before pulling out, a Texas state trooper pulled me over. Ugh. I was doing 65 in a 65. ?!? License please. Sure. I pulled you over because one of your headlights is out. Phew. Here’s a warning. Thanks sir for not putting me in the slammer for a night.

I have a cold. Some Dayquil and down time should cure that.    

P1040838November 2 in San Antonio, I crashed. Slept for most of the morning before we got up and ate lunch. We met up with Shaun for dinner. (Shaun was stationed at Lackland Air Force Base, right next to our motel, where he was going through dog training). We went to downtown San Antonio to the Riverwalk, which if you don’t know, is probably one of the coolest city features I’ve ever seen. Imagine Venice without the flooding. This stretch of river cuts through downtown in a square (man-made?) and there is a sidewalk and restaurants and shops all around it, on a lower level than the rest of the downtown area. Trés chic. The riverwalk and the lighted up buildings gave San Antone a character and style that I didn’t know it had. How bizah, how bizah. Though I battled through Nov 2, I had to put myself into a Nyquil coma to get some sleep that night so…
We didn’t get moving on the 3rd til much later again. We saw some of the downtown attractions during the daytime at least, including the Alamo. Met up with Shaun and some of his Marine buddies later in the night.

Nov 4 said goodbye to Shaun and drove to Austin.

Now that we have our last commitment complete, we can relax a bit and not worry about how long it takes to get home. The down time probably comes a few days too late as I’ve already crashed and burned. Happily I’m over my cold now and can enjoy the rest of the trip. We’ve decided to skip Louisiana and New Orleans. Just not worth the effort right now. We’ll be headed in the Memphis direction in a few days after Austin and then Nashville and then likely home (for Shannon) to Ohio.

Green Chile Stew

P1040451To your immediate left lies the remains of our last few days in New Mexico. There are more photos of Taos, new ones of Bandelier National Monument, Santa Fe and White Sands National Monument.

Bandelier, though just a quarter of an inch away on the atlas map from Santa Fe, takes about an hour to get to. Located in the Frijoles Canyon, are ancient ruins and cliff dwellings of the Indian people who lived here. Volcanic eruptions left tuff all over the land. This tuff settles to form a relatively soft rock that looks like swiss cheese. The brilliant chief of the tribe that lived here must have said to himself, "well if it looks like cheese, it must be easily carved and made into nice accomodations for my people". And so it was. Left behind hundreds of years later are stone ruins, petroglyphs, and a living history of these people's lives. Muy interesante.

Santa Fe falls into the category of the unfortunate soulful cities that we did not have enough time to explore. Shannon was particularly entranced by the style of the city - much like a large town, no skyscrapers, adobe buildings as far as the eye could see. I was disappointed only because I expected spectacular and received excellent. Thus the pitfalls of high expectations.

White Sands National Monument was an unexpected surprise.  On the 40 min drive there, Shannon asked me "So what is this place like?" "Mmm I have no idea, but Jeffrey Hughes recommended it." Turns out to be a pretty spectacular piece of geology - gypsum sand dunes, white as snow, stretching for 8 miles in the middle of a valley with the backdrop of mountains and gorgeous blue sky. (Blue sky makes everything better, right?) Shannon loved White Sands, goign so far as to roll around in it and make sand angels. I enjoyed it as well, quite peaceful. Like the beach without the water. Seems like many New Mexicans had the same idea, bringing their kids there to picnic and frollick on a warm Saturday at the end of October.

And south we head.

P1040612We are in El Paso until Sunday when we will meet up with Jeffrey Hughes - of the aforementioned White Sands recommendation, and Fairfield class of '64. Then onward to Big Bend National Park in southern Texas. San Antonio for a few days after to visit Shaun Dockrill. Austin for a few days. Then we improvise and figure out a route home.
I've been on the road for almost 8 weeks now. Crazy. The days are long, the weeks are short and we can't tell how long it's been since we've been anywhere or  when we'll be somewhere else.  Time is, essentially, screwed up.

Other notes: Typepad, the wonderful service that hosts my blog, has been experiencing performance problems. They are aware and fixing it.

Did you know Texas is not the biggest state in our country? Alaska dwarfs it at around 560K square miles, while the Big TX is only about 220K? That's not gonna make a bit of difference to us as we drive the long, lonely highway through this massive state.

Happy Halloween.

Our Taos, is a very very very fine Taos.

P1040286Pictured at right is Shannon and I at the Four Corners monument where Arizona, New Mexico, Utah and Colorado all touch.  They had no restrooms available so they only charged us $1 each instead of the regular $3 admission. We stayed for about 5 minutes. It was worth every minute. But probably not much more.

New Mexico is cool, though I think I dig Arizona a bit more. You know the idea is that you get into these southwestern states and it should be warm... But we're up here in the mountains at 7000 ft. and it's chilly at night and only 60s during the day. Bah... Where's the 80 degree autumns? I'm gonna have to get a winter home in Phoenix.
We had an altogether chaaahming day dahling in this little ski resort town of Taos. Lots of art galleries here, we went hiking along the Taos Canyon area (Devisadero Trail), played with sepia toned photos and had sushi and kung pao chicken for dinner.
The award for best recommendation goes to John England. John recommended that we visit Arroyo Seco (a small village, 7 miles from Taos) for lunch. We did. We happened upon Gypsy 360, which I read about in the Taos Chamber of Commerce magazine. The food was excellent, the chai was fantastic, and we saw Julia Roberts as we were walking out. I think we should get bonus points for not bothering her for a photograph. Exciting, nonetheless. Shannon nearly hyperventilated. Figures - we see no celebs in LA, but we do in Arroyo Seco, NM. Land of Enchantment I guess...

Santa Fe Wednesday evening.

Red Rocking My World

P1040242Drove from Flagstaff through Sedona today and decided thats where I want to live - beautiful wilderness surrounding this quaint little city. Shannon and I hiked the Jordan Trail which is approximately 1.5 miles from Main Street. Dig that. Pictures, as always, are posted.

We're now hanging out in a Best Western, in Kayenta, AZ which is on the Navajo Reservation. Sobering to look out on the reservation while driving and see a random mobile home or rundown shack sitting in the shadow of a rock formation painted by the fading sun.

Tomorrow, laundry, Four Corners Monument and Taos, NM if all goes as planned.

Some notes about this site:
1. If you're looking for entries from early in the trip, scroll down the page past the photo albums. There is a listing for Archived Posts and you can select to see the posts from September when the trip started.

2. I added this new "Tip Jar" feature. First of all, if you would like to give a tip to Shannon and I, this is a nice easy way to do it. But I'm thinking that after this trip is over, maybe you'll want a CD or DVD copy of our picture files (at least the good ones posted on this site). Well, I can send you a copy and you can give me a "tip" to cover shipping expenses. Or maybe you'd like one of our photos customized for your desktop wallpaper of your computer. Or maybe you'd like a fancy framed print... We can work out the details later, but this would be the feature to use. Don't feel obligated to send money, though if you have two houses and multiple cars, you should share the wealth a bit :) Just kidding. If you have any thoughts about this, you can comment here or email me at john@johnur.com if you want to keep it private. 

Arizona is the Sunshine of My Life...

8After zipping out of Vegas and getting our requisite Hoover Damage out of the way, we found ourselves in Williams, Arizona - the "Gateway to the Grand Canyon" - a quaint town with Route 66 running right through it and all the neon motel signs that go with it. If ever in Williams, eat at Rod's Steakhouse. I recommend the "charred" steak dipped in sugar. Ta die fowah. You might want to clean off the cow in the front of the restaurant before making out with it though... Who knows where it's been.

On Friday, we destroyed hiked got taught a lesson by the Grand Canyon. The lesson is if you go down, you must come back up. The stroll to Cedar Ridge down the South Kaibab (kye - bob) Trail is a pretty torturous climb back up. But well worth it. It is, afterall, the Grandest of Canyons.

P1040218Saturday brought a most interesting day. We woke up muy early to get to Flagstaff by 8AM to meet up with Neil Weintraub (pictured with girlfriend, Diane), brother of Dana - of Dana and Mike fame. Neil, who works with the US Forest Service here in Arizona, brought us to Picture Canyon to volunteer some time to cleanup. Though the canyon was mostly clean, there were some scattered beer bottles and random car parts strewn about. The crazy thing is this is an ancient Native American site: we found petroglyphs, excavated rooms, and shards of pottery. And to top it off, a llama was brought in to help us carry out some heavy stuff.

In the afternoon, Shannon and I went off exploring by Neil's direction to Walnut Canyon National Monument, and Sunset Crater and Wupatki National Monuments (all within 30 min of Flagstaff). Walnut Canyon is, well, a canyon but along its walls, the natural ledges were once occupied by the Sinagua Indians (present-day Hopi). The Sinagua would build their rooms along the ledges because the overhangs would save them time and energy from building roofs and a fourth wall. The canyon is also lush with various vegetation: cacti and desert plants on the sunny side and fir and pine trees on the shady side.

Sunset Crater is a volcanic area with large areas of lava flow and black, volcanic sand soil. Very interesting. But even more exciting to me was the Wupatki NM - ancient ruins of Native American Civilizations - mainly of the Sinagua and Anasazi. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. The best thing about today is that none of today's adventures were previously planned, I had no idea what to expect, and we just followed Neil's advice and went. Fantastic stuff. And from what I've seen, Arizona is beautiful. I expected desert sand (which I might have gotten in the southern part of the state) and received dazzling mountains, plains and canyons. Good times.

Side notes:
1. Thanks to those who have commented. Feel free to continue participating.  And to those who haven't *cough* Mrs. Dockrill *cough*, I expect that when the appropriate time comes, you'll feel free to speak up.

2. I had added new photos to the San Diego photo album and completely forgot to mention it.

P10402103. Looks like Sunday we're headed to Sedona and then west towards New Mexico, though still debating the route we'll take to get there.  Ah the joys of improvising on the road.

4. The radio is still not fixed. Maybe this week, we'll find a place. In related news, Shannon has been most wonderful in keeping me attuned to the road with stimulating conversation. Who knew? Did I mention that we've been sharing my camera and that she's taking wonderful pictures as well?